Agisoft photoscan professional software free

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- Agisoft PhotoScan Professional (Bit) - Free download and software reviews - CNET Download

 

Shooting the photos takes a bit of practice. You don't need to be the next Ansel Adams, but it is helpful if your photography experience goes beyond shooting selfies. The software is pretty easy to get started with. Most of the free packages don't offer many options which makes them easy to use when they work.

The more sophisticated systems can take as much time and money as you want to give them, but can reward you with amazing results. That is my startlingly unqualified answer. But naturally some cameras will work better than others. The ideal camera would produce crystal clear, tack sharp, perfectly exposed, undistorted, high resolution photos under any conditions.

Unfortunately we don't have such a camera yet, but we are getting close. Here are some different types of camera along with a scan made with photos shot with each type.

You can click on each scan and explore it in 3d. This old school Nikon FM2 would theoretically work, but since you would need to shoot 5 rolls of film for a decent scan I'm not about to test it out.

Nikon FM2 by shapespeare on Sketchfab. DSLR's are still the gold star standard for photography and rightly so. They offer quality, versatility and control that you won't find anywhere else. You don't need an expensive pro model to enjoy these advantages. I have shot most of my scan using a Newer and more expensive models may offer higher resolution which means more data, but it also means higher processing times.

This is a useful feature, but only if you are trying to capture the absolute highest quality scans. I scanned this beautiful carved panel while waiting in a hotel lobby in Orlando. I shot 49 pictures in challenging light with a Nikon D with the kit lens. Buddist carved panel by shapespeare on Sketchfab. Point and shoot cameras and their mirror-less cousins have many of the advantages of DSLRs with a lower price tag. The ideal point and shoot would have a manual mode so you could really control your exposure.

Canon point and shoots have the added advantage of CHDK which is an open source firmware which you can optimize to your specific needs. I met this charming chap in the lobby of the Miami Biltmore. His job seems to be to hold up the staircase which might explain his tired look. I shot 20 pictures with a Nikon Coolpix point and shoot. Biltmore Gargoyle by shapespeare on Sketchfab. Grab yer goPro, do something totally sick, post it to youTube and you too can be famous.

But can you capture your antics in 3d at the same time? Most photogrammetry software doesn't play well with goPro. This has to do with the fisheye lens which distorts the image. Recent versions of Agisoft photoscan have a special setting for fisheye lenses which works well, but it seem to be much slower than the regular algorithm. The latest GoPros have the advantage of a built in timelapse and burst modes which allows you to shoot automatically at rates from one frame a minute to 10 frames a second.

This is useful because you can mount the camera on the end of a broom handle or a painter's roller extension and get high angle shots which would be difficult otherwise.

I used the burst mode on a Hero4 Silver to shoot 10 frames a second for 3 seconds. Perhaps my expression reveals the concentration required to do this while holding my head absolutely still. Since we need lots of photos of a subject from all angles a logical question is "What about video? So all we should need to do is wave the camera around the subject as if we were painting it to capture all the photos we need.

The pictures are taken so rapidly that it is almost impossible to not get enough overlap between them. It is a good idea in principle and it works in practice, just not that well. The resolution of video frames is nowhere near what still cameras produce. Most have tiny sensors and inexpensive optics which are optimized for shooting video, but they don't produce very sharp still images.

There may be a future for photo scans from video especially when we start to see affordable 6k and 8k cameras which can record uncompressed images. It might also be possible to optimize software to handle huge numbers of lower resolution images. It actually works and the results aren't as bad as I had expected. The some of problems have to do with me not being a competent quad copter pilot.

If you have a smart phone it may be the best place to start. Most modern phones come with a pretty deent camera and there are aftermarket camera apps which will give you better control. The real potential of the phone as scanner is in dedicated scanner apps. The power of the scanner app goes beyond just taking the photos. For instance, the dCatch app from Autodesk uses your phone's sensors to measure what direction you are pointing your camera and to coach you through making a good scan.

Then the app up loads your photos to their server for processing. You might not want to do this on your data plan, but it could be a handy feature on wifi. A short coming of the current dCatch is that it doesn't save the photos to your phone at least the android version I used didn't.

If or I should say when something goes wrong with the scan you don't have easy access to the photos to try something else. This is a scan of one of my anvils which I shot with a Samsung Galaxy S5 using the stock camera app.

I shot 74 photos and processed them with Agisoft. Anvil scanned with Galaxy S5 by shapespeare on Sketchfab. When you are getting started the best camera to use is the best camera you have. The DSLR is the gold standard.

If you want to buy a camera for serious photo scanning, or serious photography in general, this is what you want. But remember, what it comes down to is the quality of your photos, not the quality of your camera.

With the right skills and the right conditions you can take good photos with a bad camera. But if you don't know what you are doing, it is easy to take bad photos with a good camera. If you want to invest in something, invest in your skills as a photographer.

The camera is only as good as the photographer behind it. Photo scanning something difficult, like this scan I made of the eye of a needle, requires a pretty good understanding of both photography and photogrammetry.

Eye of a Needle by shapespeare on Sketchfab. A shoe is a great first scan. Pick something simple and practical, nothing glittery that screams "take me to Las Vegas".

Put your subject on a stool or a box so you don't have to crawl around shooting it on the ground. I set this teapot on top of my tripod so I could shoot it comfortably. Make sure you have good lighting. If you can swing it, working outdoors on an overcast day is perfect. You get lots of nice even diffuse light. If you need to shoot indoors set up as much light as you can and make it as diffuse as possible.

Point your lights at a white painted ceiling or bounce cards, or those groovy silver umbrellas. The idea is to get as much light as possible with as few shadows as possible. On-camera flash is not generally useful here. It tends to cast shadows which appear in different places in each photo. Remote strobes are fine as long as they provide a very diffuse, even light. You are going to be shooting somewhere around a hundred photos so make sure your set up is comfortable.

It is possible to shoot using a tripod, but it is so time consuming that it should be avoided if at all possible. The best plan is to get enough light going that you can shoot handheld. If you don't know what at least some of those knobs and buttons on your camera do, this would be a good time to learn. There are lots of good sites dedicated to this subject, written by people how know a lot more than I do so I will only touch on the basics. ISO determines how sensitive the camera is to light.

Higher values will reduce exposure times, but at the cost of increased noise. ISO is as high as you want to go with most cameras. You set it and forget it. Aperture priority is the best mode to shoot with. You choose an aperture and the camera makes all the other adjustments for you. There is a balancing act between the greater depth of field that comes with smaller apertures which are signified by larger numbers, thanks a lot whoever came up with that one and diffraction effects which soften the image at very small apertures.

Shutter speed plays a huge role in your quest for sharp pictures. If the exposure is longer than the reciprocal of the lens' focal length you can't hold the camera steady enough to get a sharp picture. Usually the only way to do this is by adding more light. As a last resort you can use a monopod or tripod to allow slower shutter speeds, but it will be very time consuming. Unless you are extremely famous and have interns to sort hundreds of photos, you will want to make a new folder on your camera for each scan you shoot.

Now, choose a starting point you will remember. This is usually looking straight on to the subject. By noting the start point you will know when you have completed a complete pass all around the object.

Try to make the subject fill as much of the frame as possible. Background objects in the shot won't hurt and they can help the software locate the camera positions if there aren't enough features on the subject. The quality of your scan depends entirely on the quality of your photos.

If you fill the frame with all the details of the subject you will capture those details in your scan. The idea is to move around the subject taking photos from many different perspectives. Standing in one place and shooting a bunch of photos does nothing to capture the 3d shape. You need to move to subject. After you shoot the first picture look carefully at how it is framed. When in doubt, overlap more. If you think you may have moved too much, go back halfway and shoot another picture.

The order of the pictures doesn't matter to most software. Remember that you can always dump extra shots, but you can't make up for shots you didn't take. Once you break down your set up you are done.

If you find later that you need more shots you usually have to start again from the beginning. When moving between shots I find it helpful to look at the edges of the subject rather than its center. By watching the edges you observe how your movement occludes or reveals the background behind the subject. This effect is called parallax by people who like cool words like that , and it magnifies your perception of motion. Even though the subject doesn't change very much between individual shots, the background does.

If you move until you see a change in the subject you usually move too far. It is always better to have a few too many shots than a few too few. But having way too many can be a problem as well. For starters, the software must compare each picture to each other picture in the set. Even if math wasn't your favorite subject you can easily see how this could cause problems.

I generally try to capture the object as a whole by making a couple of complete revolutions around it at different angles and then I move in on areas of specific interest. When picking your angles think coverage, not comfort.

Crawling around in the mud to get the low angle perspective is not much fun but you may need those shots. A DSLR with a flip out screen can really help as you can hold the camera at knee height and use the screen to frame the shots. The same is true for overhead shots.

As you make your shots pay attention to your exposure settings. If you are at a low angle, shooting up towards the sky you may want to overexpose your image an EV or two. This is because the camera's meter tends to pick up the light from the sky and under expose the image.

A little over exposed is always better because you can see the details. If everything is silhouetted the software can't get much data from the shot. You have a bunch of choices for processing your scans.

I'll narrow it down the the 3 which are the cheapest and easiest to use. For beginners my first choice is Autodesk Memento. Also, you can save your documents in the cloud with OneDrive and access them from anywhere. New features include a new read mode in Microsoft Word, a presentation mode in Microsoft PowerPoint and improved touch and inking in all of the Office programs. Word and PowerPoint also have bookmark-like features which sync the position of the document between different computers.

Microsoft Word can also insert video and audio from online sources as well as the capability to broadcast documents on the Web. Prior to start Microsoft Office Professional Plus Sep Free Download, ensure the availability of the below listed system specifications. This is a full offline installer and standalone setup for Windows Operating System.

Get Into PC. Download 32 Bit x86 v Download 64 Bit x64 v